The Lightning SE features triple butted Columbus Spirit steel frame tubing (see tech info from Columbus below). Each frame is hand tig welded and all aspects of the alignment are checked before any frame leaves the factory. The fork features carbon fiber blades, with an aluminum steerer.
There are two critical aspects of frame design- cockpit design (rider fit- where the rider connects to the bike and where these points are in relation to each other) and steering/handling. I design the frames here, in-house, to ensure the desired characteristics. The seat tube angle, top tube length and stem height and length are the key elements to consider for correct rider fit. Then, for handling, stability and agility are both considered- too stable and the steering is heavy; too quick and the bike is twitchy, more difficult to control, especially at slower speeds. I designed the Lightning SE using traditional road racing geometry with tweaks for fixed gear riding (for more info on Wabi's frame and wheel design philosophies, click here).
Samples are then built for stress testing on a machine. Wabi frames are built to the most rigid standard, the EN, the current European standard. This is your assurance of the quality and structural integrity of each Wabi Cycles frame.
The Lightning SE is not just another steel frame- the quality of tubing, design and manufacturing combine to create the traditional ride that the best steel frames are known for. The Wabi Lightning SE will amaze you, both with its beautiful workmanship and plush ride.
*Traditional steel frames use 25.4mm diameter TT, 28.6mm ST and DT. The spirit tubes are 31.7 TT and 38.0 DT. ST remains the same.
* ST measured from ctr of BB to ctr of TT See diagram below on how this is measured
Dimensions in mm
A word on fit. There is no one way to nail correct fit on the first try. If you've been riding a long time, you probably know what you need, from the dimensions on an existing bike (see our fit guide page for more info).
One word of caution about positioning adjustments- general wisdom is to not radically change seat height, to avoid knee problems. This is more important the more you ride. So, try to get as close to right as you can initially on seat height and then modify by 3 or 4mm as needed.
I've had many years of experience in fitting people to bicycles, both in person and long distance, so if you have any questions as to what frame size you should get, or other dimensional questions, contact me and I'll be glad to help you.