The Classic features traditional butted steel frame tubing,
using heat treated, oversized* Reynolds 725 chrome
molybdenum steel. Each frame is hand tig welded and all
aspects of the alignment are checked before any frame
leaves the factory. The fork features butted cro-moly
steel blades, brazed to an investment cast crown. Fork
tips and rear drops are precision investment cast steel,
and the seat post clamp is an integrated brazed type.
There are two critical aspects of frame design- cockpit
design (rider fit- where the rider connects to the bike and
where these points are in relation to each other) and
steering/handling. Our frame design is done here,
in-house, to ensure the desired characteristics. The seat
tube angle, top tube length and stem height and length
are the key elements to consider for correct rider fit.
Then, for handling, stability and agility are both
considered- too stable and the steering is heavy; too
quick and the bike is twitchy, more difficult to control,
especially at slower speeds. We designed the Classic
using traditional road racing geometry with tweaks for
fixed gear riding (for more info on our frame and wheel
design philosophies, click here).
Samples are then built for stress testing on a machine.
We build to the most rigid standard, the EN, the current
European standard. This is your assurance of the quality
and structural integrity of each Wabi Cycles frame.
The Classic is not just another steel frame- the quality of
tubing, design and manufacturing combine to create the
traditional ride that the best steel frames are known for.
We believe the Wabi Classic will amaze you, both with its
beautiful workmanship and plush ride.
*Traditional steel frames use 25.4mm diameter TT, 28.6mm ST
and DT. Oversized uses 28.6 TT and 31.75 DT. ST remains the
same.
using heat treated, oversized* Reynolds 725 chrome
molybdenum steel. Each frame is hand tig welded and all
aspects of the alignment are checked before any frame
leaves the factory. The fork features butted cro-moly
steel blades, brazed to an investment cast crown. Fork
tips and rear drops are precision investment cast steel,
and the seat post clamp is an integrated brazed type.
There are two critical aspects of frame design- cockpit
design (rider fit- where the rider connects to the bike and
where these points are in relation to each other) and
steering/handling. Our frame design is done here,
in-house, to ensure the desired characteristics. The seat
tube angle, top tube length and stem height and length
are the key elements to consider for correct rider fit.
Then, for handling, stability and agility are both
considered- too stable and the steering is heavy; too
quick and the bike is twitchy, more difficult to control,
especially at slower speeds. We designed the Classic
using traditional road racing geometry with tweaks for
fixed gear riding (for more info on our frame and wheel
design philosophies, click here).
Samples are then built for stress testing on a machine.
We build to the most rigid standard, the EN, the current
European standard. This is your assurance of the quality
and structural integrity of each Wabi Cycles frame.
The Classic is not just another steel frame- the quality of
tubing, design and manufacturing combine to create the
traditional ride that the best steel frames are known for.
We believe the Wabi Classic will amaze you, both with its
beautiful workmanship and plush ride.
*Traditional steel frames use 25.4mm diameter TT, 28.6mm ST
and DT. Oversized uses 28.6 TT and 31.75 DT. ST remains the
same.
| Geometry |
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Steel is steel is steel, right? No. The type of tubing matters. Click here to connect to an
article on steel tubing. It can be confusing- hopefully this article will help fill in some gaps.
article on steel tubing. It can be confusing- hopefully this article will help fill in some gaps.
Classic fixed gear frame details
1.888.732.7030
* ST measured from ctr of BB to ctr of TT
See diagram below on how this is measured
Dimensions in mm
See diagram below on how this is measured
Dimensions in mm
A word on fit. There is no one way to nail correct fit on
the first try. If you've been riding a long time, you
probably know what you need, from the dimensions on
an existing bike (see our fit guide page for more info).
One word of caution about positioning adjustments-
general wisdom is to not radically change seat height, to
avoid knee problems. This is more important the more
you ride. So, try to get as close to right as you can
initially on seat height and then modify by 3 or 4mm as
needed.
I've had many years of experience in fitting people to
bicycles, both in person and long distance, so if you have
any questions as to what frame size you should get, or
other dimensional questions, contact me and I'll be glad
to help you.
the first try. If you've been riding a long time, you
probably know what you need, from the dimensions on
an existing bike (see our fit guide page for more info).
One word of caution about positioning adjustments-
general wisdom is to not radically change seat height, to
avoid knee problems. This is more important the more
you ride. So, try to get as close to right as you can
initially on seat height and then modify by 3 or 4mm as
needed.
I've had many years of experience in fitting people to
bicycles, both in person and long distance, so if you have
any questions as to what frame size you should get, or
other dimensional questions, contact me and I'll be glad
to help you.
